BUSINESS OF FASHION: VIKTOR & ROLF TO GO HAUTE
Viktor & Rolf is going strictly luxury shutting its ready-to-wear business after the Fall/Winter 2015 collection. Taking a cue from Jean-Paul Gaultier last year, the brand is to focus entirely on haute couture and fragrances.
As reported to WWD, Dutch designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren will complete and market their last womenswear collection in a private presentation, not the Paris runway. The brand currently delivers men’s and women’s clothing to about 100 high-end stores in addition to its flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, which will close in early 2016.
Citing years of grueling production schedules and competition on the runway, Viktor & Rolf seeks to channel its artistic heritage through couture.
“We feel a strong need to refocus on our artistic roots. We have always used fashion to communicate, it is our primary means of artistic expression,” Horsting said to WWD, lamenting that RTW “started to feel creatively restricting. By letting go of it, we gain more time and freedom.”
The brand has a reputation for theatrical shows, presenting collections alongside star-studded live performances from actors and musicians like Tilda Swinton, Rufus Wainwright and Tori Amos.
The decision to end RTW was made in conference with company majority shareholder Italian magnate Renzo Rosso of OTB Group, who described the choice as “a strategic decision to position the Viktor & Rolf brand in the highest luxury segment of fashion.”